Bikes today come with more gears than you can count on your fingers and toes, but once you've been sold on the advantages of all those gears, few salespeople take the time to explain how to use them correctly. Consequently, many cyclist don't know how to shift gears for maximum benefit.
(First of all, let me point out that here in Chicago, any number of gears above seven is completely redundant and unnecessary for most riders. It is a rare Chicago cyclist who has ever used all of his or her gears, and usually it was outside the state lines.)
Surprisingly, when you purchase a 24- (or 21 or 27)-speed bike, you do not get gears 1 through 24. Instead, you get three ranges of eight gears. Allow me to explain. Most multi-speed bikes have three front chainrings, attached to the pedal crank (road bikes generally have two chainrings): the small one is easy (for uphill), the medium is moderate, and the large one is hard (wind on your back). These are operated by the front derailleur, controlled by your left shift-lever.
For each of the three, you get eight (or seven, or nine, depending on your bike) gears from the cassette attached to the rear wheel. These are operated by the rear derailleur, controlled by the right shift-lever. Confusingly, the smallest gear in the rear is the hardest, and the largest is the easiest.
Thus, you end up with eight easy, eight moderate and eight hard gears. In a flat city like Chicago, you will probably be using primarily the moderate gear range. Most of us have a favorite gear or two in which we usually pedal. That's the gear that offers the most efficient cadence when you are moving at a good clip, but not pushing a gear that is too hard, or spinning in a gear that's too easy.
On a derailleur-equipped bike, you must be pedaling in order for the chain to move to another gear. Many bikes have shifter indicators, telling you what gear you are in. But after you've gained some practice, you will be doing it "by feel".
Shift gears when the riding conditions change: when changing direction (the wind may now be in your face), when the road slope changes, when you are forced to alter your speed. When you pull up to a red light, shift to an easier gear (using your right shifter), so that when the light turns green, you won't have to stand on the pedals to get going. As you begin to accelerate, shift back up to your preferred gear. Shift to an easy gear in front (the left shift-lever) when you approach a steep incline (rare in Chicago, but it could happen, like when you are going on an overpass), and keep shifting gradually as you scale the hill and the pedaling gets harder. Once at the top, shift back to the harder gear in front to get the most out of your descent.
Other things to remember:
You don't really get 24 gears on your 24-speed bike, because some gear combinations are to be avoided. When riding in the small (easy) chainring in the front, avoid shifting to the small (hard) chainring in the rear. And vice versa. These positions cause the chain to cross over and subject it to undue stress. You may hear the chain grind as it rubs the front derailleur.
Avoid shifting under torque. When you need to shift, ease the pressure on the pedals somewhat to release the tension in the chain somewhat, and allow it to move to the next cog as you press the shifter.
You don't have to shift one gear at a time. Simply move through the range of gears until you get to the one you want, and the chain will follow.
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